Engelberg, Switzerland - September 30 - October 4, 2018






September 30 - Ferry from Weggis to Luzern - Train to Engelberg - Walk to Furenalp Lift - Hike to Engelberg
October 1 - Rainy Day in Engelberg - Prompting Concerns about Obstructive Snows at Elevation
October 2 - Lift from Engelberg to Brunnihutte - Hike to Bannalpsee - Lift to Bus to Wolfenschiessen - Train to Engelberg
October 3- Bus to Furenalp Lift - Hike Upvalley to Bielen - Back to Stauber and Downvalley to Base of Furenalp Lift - Bus to Engelberg
October 4 - Lift from Engelberg to Kleine Titlis - Lift Down to Truebsee- Walk to Lift to Jochpass and Down toward Engstlensee - Hike to Tannensee and Back to Lift to Jochpass and Lift Down to Engelberg
In and Around Engelberg

My European hiking adventures in 2018 took place with bases in Weggis and Engelberg, Switzerland. On my way to Weggis, I stopped in the Tourist Office in the Luzern train station (an hour by train from Zurich airport) and purchased a 10-day 'Tell-Pass'.  It was expensive, at 300 CHF (Swiss Francs), about $300US, but it gave me free lifts, buses, trains, and boat ferries for both the Weggis/Luzern and Engelberg areas. It felt expensive when I bought it, but it paid for itself several times over. Transport is expensive in Switzerland; one round-trip lift to a destination high-point can easily run to $75 or $100. If you're planning to travel in this scenic, user-friendly region, I encourage you to consider the Tell-Pass.




September 30 - Ferry from Weggis to Luzern - Train to Engelberg - Walk to Furenalp Lift - Hike to Engelberg




Runkeeper Info

Route Map

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Final views of Weggis before leaving by ferry to Luzern, where I would catch the train to Engelberg.

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Hotel Alpenblick.

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Mount Pilatus, a celebrated peak south of Luzern.

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Wow! Lake Luzern Ferry souvenirs!

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Approaching Luzern.

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The train to Engelberg.

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Arriving at my Hotel in Engelberg, Hotel Cathrin.

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There was a free tourist shuttle bus, but the next one wasn't due for more than an hour. So I set off to walk to the Furenalp lift.

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Olympic champions trained here.

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Paraglider landing field.

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Paragliders in scenic Engelberg.

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I walked past a campground.

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A pueblo in Switzerland??!!!

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"And Totem, too!"

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After an hour of walking on sidewalk and road, I reached the Furenalp lift.

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A cute doggie was waiting to ride the lift.

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Another cozy lift.

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Furenalp.

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I thought I'd try the route they show as number 6.

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Given my late start, I was setting out to walk a 'balcony' route along the valley wall, finally hiking down into Engelberg.  On this plan, I wouldn't have to meet any lift or other timetable. I had headlamps and a good map, in case progress was slow.

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Looking back toward Furenalp.

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A mysterious apparition in my photo!

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An oblique view of Engelberg.

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After about two hours of generally pleasant walking from Furenalp, I approached Hinter Horbis.

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In another 45 minutes, I reached the train station where I'd arrived in Engelberg a few hours previous.

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I celebrated my hike with a cold beer.

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This couple said, yes, they were just back from a hike with their leashed cat. It went OK, except that the cat was eager to greet everyone they encountered on the trail.





October 1 - Rainy Day in Engelberg - Prompting Concerns about Hike-Confounding Snow at Elevation




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I think you're in the wrong business!

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October 2 - Lift from Engelberg to Brunnihutte - Hike to Bannalpsee - Lift to Bus to Wolfenschiessen - Train to Engelberg




Runkeeper Info

Route Map

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Where there isn't enough snow, the cross-country ski team practices on wheels.

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Soggy pupils, eh?


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There was no snow down in the valley, but the rainy previous day in the valley had deposited snow in the higher zones where I'd hoped to walk. I went to the Tourist Office and the agent suggested a hike that happened to be on my list of desirable possibles. I pressed her on the snow threat for the route and she discounted it. I asked specifically about a north-facing crest later in the route. She thought it would be no problem. So I left for the lifts to Brunnihutte.

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Engelberg.

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From the midstation, I walked to the the second lift, that would carry me to Brunnihutte.

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Brunnihutte.

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A wide variety of food items was available.

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There was some snow, but mostly - to my relief - the trail was melted out.

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When I arrived, there were three other hikers there. I'd only seen a few other people out walking, and none recently. 

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The group of three headed down by another trail. I continued uphill along my intended route - which had been suggested by the Tourist Office.

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Looking back toward the three-hikers building/junction (close to the center of the frame). Ascending during the intervening 20 minutes, I could tell from the unbroken snow, that I was the first person along this route since the snow fell.

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Still with a southwest exposure, the trail was mostly melted-out.

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I was not the first CREATURE to follow this trail since the snow fell.  This unidentified critter traversed led my tracks for a substantial distance.

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As my trail started to cross unbroken snow, I was NOT feeling grateful for the Tourist Office guidance.

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This sign, at 'Walegg 1943m" marked the high point of my route. Here the trail changed direction to traverse a north-facing and very steep slope. This had been my specific area of concern at the Tourist Office.

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I could see that my intended route snaked across steep topography. In places there were safety wires for reassurance.

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The critter still led me.

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I didn't appreciate deepening snow on the tricky terrain.

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In places, the safety wires lapsed. I was very anxious at the uncertain - potentially icy - surface beneath the snow. In places, I leaned down and scraped aside snow with my mittened hand to expose my footing.

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Looking back at the route I traversed so far from 'Walegg'.

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Bannalpsee, below, the goal I hoped to achieve.

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After a stressful interval in threatening terrain, the topography mellowed.  And as I descended, the snow thinned.

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Not sure if this is multiple tracks from the creature I followed or ???

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I felt very relieved when I reached the shore of Bannalpsee.

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I could see that there were some people on the dam.

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I trudged across the dam. I was hoping to take a lift down from the far end of the dam.

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The tiny 6(?)-person lift appeared to be unattended. I got in it and pressed the buttons, but nothing happened. I tried the intercom; the 2nd voice spoke English and said, 'No, the lift is not for one person.' Just then, the family I'd seen crossing the dam arrived, ready to descend. So the lift was activated. Standing compressed together, the five of us rode down.

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At the bottom of the lift, after a few moments, the lift operator emerged and drove away on the scooter to attend to the other lift, a short distance away, for which he was also responsible.

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I sat down at the bus stop and waited for the bus to Wolfenschiessen, where I caught the train to Engelberg.

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October 3- Bus to Furenalp Lift - Hike Upvalley to Bielen - Back to Stauber and Downvalley to Base of Furenalp Lift - Bus to Engelberg




Runkeeper Info

Route Map

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It looked like a fine early October day when I set out.

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But by the time I'd shuttle-bused  and lifted to Furenalp, it was completely overcast and the the low ceiling truncated the mountaintops.

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It was a fine day for walking, but the views would have been much more dramatic with a higher ceiling.

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I tried pretty hard for a different result, but I ended up looking the same.

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I'd only seen a few people out walking. But I encountered a couple, who wanted photos of themselves, and reciprocated...

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I'd originally intended to continue on to a pass, Surenenpass, another 90 minutes farther, but it did not seem like the clouds would abate - and the walk, up a dirt road, wasn't particularly interesting.  So I turned around here, at Bielen.

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I retraced my steps back toward Furenalp. But here at Stauber/Stalden, I turned left to trek downvalley.

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Cars were, apparently, permitted this far. A few people had driven here, and I saw a couple of bicyclists, for this little restaurant at Stafeli.

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I continued, mostly down the road, toward the Furenalp lift.

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About 3.5 hours after setting off from the top of this lift, I arrived at the base of the Furenalp lift - and a shuttle bus back to Engelberg.





October 4 - Lift from Engelberg to Kleine Titlis - Lift Down to Truebsee- Walk to Lift to Jochpass and Down toward Engstlensee - Hike to Tannensee and Back to Lift to Jochpass and Lift Down to Engelberg




Runkeeper Info

Route Map

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I was very happy to see that the fine weather day matched the forecast.

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This was my day to take the 3 lifts to the top of Kleine Titlis, the highest lift-accessible viewpoint around.

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Nice view of Truebsee. Later I would walk along the near shore of it to ride the lift up and to the left, to Jochpass.

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I tried to check out the various levels of the summit installation.

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Another lift from the top, the 'Ice Flyer' reportedly carried people past views of crevasses to 'Glacier Park', where Titlis' web site says you can: 'Whiz down the snow toy run on one of our fun sit-skis, snake gliss or minibobs and let our magic carpet conveyor belt whisk you quickly and easily back to the top.' I was anticipating a hike later; I did not investigate.

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The 'Cliff Walk' is billed as 'Europe's highest suspension bridge'. It swayed and bounced a bit as people walked across its extended length.

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At the far end of 'Cliff Walk', stairways led to an entrance back into the 5-story summit (tourist trap) station.

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It would be cool to come back when the window was open and the snowblower was coating all the scenic mountaintops with snow!

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Scenic Swiss Mountaintops.

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Approaching 'Glacier Cave'.

11:20:31
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Many of the tourists seemed Indian or Oriental. A large number of them frolicked in the snow, perhaps finding it unfamiliar...

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Anticipating frigid summit conditions, I was actually overdressed for the conditions.

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11:39:16
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It was a Thursday, late in the season. Even so, there were, IMHO, too many tourists about (myself included, of course...). But I bet it's truly an overcrowded zoo on a summer weekend day.

11:41:12
2018:10:04


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12:03:50
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When I'd explored enough, I took two lifts down to 'Truebsee', which seemed to be a tarn, perched above the lowest lift link, which connected it to Engelberg.

12:04:07
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Arriving at the east end of Truebsee, I walked around to the west end to catch the lift up to the pass, Jochpass.

12:37:14
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Along the way, the walk passed a large playground.

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The playground even had its own map!

12:43:54
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I caught the lift up to Jochpass.

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Jochpass.

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I took the lift down to a lift station that looked more like a ramshackle barn.

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I set off for a pleasant walk toward and past Engstlensee.

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Approaching the village of Enstlenalp.

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14:02:04
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Miners in the Old West?!  No. I concluded this was a Swiss military contingent making trail improvements. I encountered several work groups.

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Trail improvement apparatus.

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Safety wire.

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Approaching the village of Tannalp.

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Tannalp was accessible by tourist bus from the other direction.

14:40:02
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Wasn't expecting a parade of llamas!

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Or alpacas! (Not that I could tell the difference...)

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I turned around at Tannensee to retrace my route back to the lift.

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The ungulates seemed happy to graze while their tenders snacked at the only happening place in Tannalp.

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A freshly reworked section of trail.

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This vibrating compactor turned the surface of clay and fine gravel into tough asphalt-like 'pavement', a fine traction surface for this popular tourist trail.


15:11:16
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Trying not to dally on my way back to the time-constrained lift, I was not pleased to be backed up behind a convoy in a no-passing zone.

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I ran out of water, on a hot dry day when I was pumping pretty hard. This was my first opportunity to buy a bottle of water, but the waitress said the fountain was good water, so I recharged with that.

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Clean up after your dog.

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It had not been a particularly long walk, but I'd been pushing the pace to avoid missing the last lift sequence back to Engelberg  So I was ready to reach the unassuming lift base station.

15:56:15
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16:14:23
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Lifting back down from Jochpass to Truebsee, which was rapidly being engulfed in shadow.

16:19:46
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17:13:49
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Late-day sun on Swiss mountaintops...



In and Around Engelberg




19:34:16
2018:10:02
Restaurant food is generally expensive in Switzerland. Most people go for the $20 pizza.  I discovered that if I went a notch more expensive for my entree I was rewarded with high-quality cuisine.

19:34:38
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Like this lovely stuffed chicken with risotto, broccoli, and carrots.

08:34:20
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Breakfast at Hotel Cathrin was fairly typical for Switzerland.

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20:33:23
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Bieralp, the sister restaurant of Al Monastero, the stuffed chicken (above) place, was said to boast an experienced Parisian french chef.  I sprung for the escargots (snails) and was not disappointed.

21:15:37
2018:10:03
I tried their delicious chicken/vegetables/risotto preparation as well.

21:16:02
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Excellent!

07:44:35
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A few views from the small balcony outside my hotel room.

07:44:51
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I complained to different members of the management abut the stupid layout of my room. A huge bed filled the room.  Suitable for two people, yes, but the person beside the wall would have to climb into bed. And the person on the balcony side would have to navigate the too-narrow aisle between the bed and the window to get into bed. 

09:45:18
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The door to the porch opened inward. I could only open the door partway and had to then wedge myself through the opening to get outside. They should tear out the oversized bed and replace it with a twin bed for one person.

09:45:36
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Other than the ridiculous bed, the other features of the room suited my chaotic residence style.

09:45:53
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09:46:11
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20:53:15
2018:10:04
Another magnificent meal at Al Monastero Restaurant. The next morning, I trained out early for Zurich airport to fly home.



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