April 6 - Visit to the Botanical Garden in Funchal.
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My hotel in Funchal is the huge building under the wedge on the right. |
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It is possible to ride the cable car to the Botanical Garden, but the trip involves two long segments: a) Funchal to Monte and b) Monte to the Botanical Garden. The bus was faster and cheaper, so I travelled by bus. |
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The occupants of 'Lovers Cave' appeared to be enjoying a rather subdued amorous adventure... |
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April 7 - Hike from Boca da Corrida to Pico Grande and on to Encumeada.
This was one of my two mountain walks on Madeira. And I lucked into a magnificent weather day for it! Combination of Rother Walks 38 and 40.
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Runkeeper Info
Arriving at the road to end my hike, I found no amenities at the trailhead. The guidebook said refreshments and bus could be found 1 km down the road. So I began to walk. An opportunistic cabbie stopped with 2 passengers in his taxi. He offered to take me to a better bus stop for 10 euros. Buses were likely, but infrequent at my current location (and 1 km down the road), so I jumped in. I rode as much as a mile before remembering to shut off Runkeeper. My trace and pace are therefore inaccurately tallied on the Runkeeper Info. |
Hiking Map
I used this excellent map for planning and reference throughout my Madeira trip. I found it to be rugged and helpful.
Walking Guide
My friend Andrea had recommended this guidebook which they had used. The copy I ordered did not arrive in time for the trip, but I found a copy at the newsstand upstairs in the Madeira airport on my arrival. It proved to be an excellent resource.
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Hike Map |
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There were few buses up this valley,, but I rode the one destined for 'Boca da Corrida', the end of the road, where I expected to begin my hike. Most of the buses only go as far as Jardim da Serra, farther down the valley. In fact, the 'Boca da Corrida' bus turned around about a mile short of Boca da Corrida, and I had to walk for about 20 minutes up the moderately steep road to reach my 'starting point', which people with cars could drive to. |
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Looking east toward the high spine of the island. The large, white, spherical antenna atop Pico do Arieiro is visible below the triangle. |
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I believe the current destination, Pico Grande, is the prominent summit near the center of the photo. |
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My friend Andrea had scaled this rocky prominence to reach the true summit of Pico Grande in January. I did not attempt the exposed route, myself, but appreciated the fine views - that I considered adequately equivalent - from the summit plateau... |
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A few short stretches of the route felt a bit more exposed than I was comfortable with... |
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Back at the trail junction, I turned right and northward to continue my walk toward Encumeada. A Swedish epidemiology professor, Fredrik, who I'd met at the summit, had decided to extend his walk by walking toward Encumeada for about 45 minutes before returning to his rental car parked at Boca da Corrida. So we walked together for a while. |
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When we rounded a corner at a scenic view spot, Fredrik turned to walk back toward his car. |
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The trailhead at Encumeada was just a clearing beside the road. I started to walk down the road for the "1 km" to refreshment and a bus stop. But a taxi stopped to see if I wanted a ride. For 10 euros, I was happy for the ride with 2 other passengers to a city by the coast where I caught a much-more-frequent-there bus after just a few minutes' wait. |
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April 8 - Classic walk on the São Lourenço Peninsula.
One of the Must-Do walks on the island. Rother Walk 12.
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Runkeeper Info |
Hike Map |
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April 9 - Coastal Promenade walk from Funchal.
I discovered that the bus schedule sparsens drastically on Sundays. It appeared that I could walk this route starting at my hotel. And the walk would terminate at Camara de Lobos, which would offer frequent buses, even on a Sunday. Rother Walk 1.
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Runkeeper Info |
Hike Map |
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Very cool sundial! |
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Coastal erosion had claimed a portion of the path I walked. |
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This tiled walkway used to continue across what is now a chasm. |
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Die-hard sunbathers. This looked terribly uncomfortable to me, and the sun was hidden behind thick clouds... |
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Lighthouse. |
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I might expect it in Amsterdam, but... |
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Self-service exercise station. |
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April 10 - Walk Levada dos Piornais from Funchal to Santa Rita, Walk to Camara de Lobos.
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Bananas ripening on the tree. |
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occasionally, it appeared that the evolving clump of bananas was enclosed in a protective sheath- to discourage parasites? |
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I left the levada to cross the highway and walk down the road toward Camara de Lobos. |
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Walking along the coastal road, I encountered the coastal promenade from my walk the day before. It seemed more pleasant than the road, so I joined it to retrace my route of Sunday to Camara de Lobos. |
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I sat for a refreshing beer at an outdoor cafe as the rain returned. I asked my waiter what was the strange object suspended over the door at this other bar across the way. My waiter produced a wooden miniature of the object and demonstrated twirling the rod between his palms to spin the enlarged end - for stirring a beverage. He seemed to call the wooden object a "poncha", tho we did have some linguistic barrier issues... |
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I was unaware that one of the attractions of Madeira is that you can drive with the seals for 249 euros! |
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April 11 - Mountain hike from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo and down to Teixeira.
This dramatic Must-Do hike was recommended by Charles and Andrea, who had hiked it in January, and by all of the guidebooks. It is one of the 3 "Best Walks" in the Lonely Planet "Pocket Madeira" guide. Most of the guides consider this walk as an out-and-back, and that is the way Charles and Andrea had walked it. I suspect that if I had retraced my route, I would not have been as anxious as I found myself for much of the one-way that I walked. There are safety wires and/or steps or supporting structures for most of the route. And since it is such a popular, celebrated route, it is truly engineered for safety. But with the steep drop-offs and looming chasms abounding around me, I was sometimes uncomfortable... Rother Walk 34.
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11:13:02
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Some mountain bikers got off with me at Poiso, the closest point to Pico do Arieiro. I was surprised that no other hikers alighted for this accoladed walk. And I was surprised that there was nothing here but a sleepy restaurant that seemed unattended at the morning hour. |
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I applied sungoop, expecting that I'd enjoy a warm, pleasant walk in bright sun, as I had the previous Friday for Pico Grande. Then I walked to the intersection and managed to catch a ride with an older German tourist couple to Pico do Arieiro. The former military helicopter pilot, who had logged more than 10,000 hours of flight, did not want to accept the 10 euros I offered, but finally he relented and accepted it with my gratitude. It probably would have taken an hour or two to walk the road distance from Poiso. |
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Arriving at Pico do Arieiro, the wind was howling and it was frigid! Of coulrse I had left my long underwear and long pants at my hotel, but I put on all the other garments I had, which, fortunately, included a windproof rainshell with a hood, hat, and gloves. |
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Setting out, the trail was broad, but with the raging wind and intimidating terrain spread out before me, this timid soul did experience trepidations. |
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The Rother guidebook suggested taking the shorter, western, tunnel route on the way out, and the longer eastern route for the return, but the eastern route was still closed, as it had been when the Fall, 2016 edition of the Rother guide was prepared. |
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It seemed like I had descended endlessly, and often steeply, after leaving Pico do Arieiro. I had ascended some, and some of that had been a difficult grunt. But I was very surprised to see this path approaching from the right, from Teixeira, which meant that I had nearly completed my ascent and was close to Pico Ruivo, the highest peak on the island. |
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This closed mountain hut, 'Casa de Abrigo' seemed a good spot for walkers to break for lunch. I didn't linger to wiat for the WC. |
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No views from the top of Pico Ruivo, but personally satisfying nonetheless... |
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The walk down to Teixeira was easy and relaxing and only took about 45 pleasant minutes from the summit! |
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I'd expected to find a taxi to share, but ended up catching a ride on a tour bus that was only about 1/3 full, to ride to Santana, a city on the north coast where I hoped to find lodging for the night. Santana was a much better starting point for my intended walk the next day than if I traveled all the way back to Funchal - a two-hour bus ride away. |
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Santana seemed pretty sleepy, but a shopkeeper directed me to Hotel O Colmo, where I booked a room for the night. I jumped in the shower and then headed out to a cafe to chat with a German electrical worker who'd shared the tour bus ride with me from Teixeira. |
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I did not take pictures of the quite serviceable breakfast at Hotel O Colmo, but I grabbed this little fruit, thinking it might be a local banana. Nope. The interior sported tiny, tough seeds in bitter fruity pulp. I don't know what it was called, but I found it more entertaining to look at than to eat. |
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April 12 - Levada walk from Queimadas to Caldeirão Verde and Caldeirão do Inferno. Hike down to Ilha.
This was another acclaimed Must-Do walk encouraged by Charles and Andrea and by the tourist guides. It was only a 5-to-10 minute cab ride, for 10 euros, from my Santana hotel. There were many people gathered here at Queimadas preparing for the walk, but I think my relatively early start put me well ahead of most of the pack. Particularly early-on, there are wide stretches where one can pass slower walkers. But for much of the route, the levada path is narrow, often with a hand wire and precipitous drop on one side. Rother Walks 28 and 29.
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Caldeirão Verde. Many people only go this far, before returning to Queimadas. |
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Some hikers continue on to Caldeirão do Inferno. This part of the walk included more tunnels. As the guidebooks noted, sometimes the ceiling height in the tunnels declines to about 4 feet. I was glad to have both headlamps and flashlights so I could stoop accordingly. |
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The route to Caldeirão do Inferno departed from the levada we had been following to ascend to another levada above, which directed most of the remaining trek to Caldeirão do Inferno. |
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Caldeirão do Inferno. |
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Back at Caldeirão Verde, this is where I encountered the hordes of walkers who were slower and/or later than I was, or whose route only extended as far as Caldeirão Verde. Now there were caterpillars of reasonably-paced walkers blocked by slow-moving, generally older folks, who seemed to enjoy walking side-by-side, when they could, and were apparently oblivious to the impatience they provoked for many... They did not exhibit the sense, or politeness, to stand aside and let people pass. |
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Trapped in a long tunnel with very slow people, I took advantage of a spot where everyone was stepping up on to the 1-foot-wide levada wall to avoid walking thru a section of the tunnel containing several inches of muddy water. I was able to splash past - and escape the crowd for a moment, only to emerge at this trail junction. |
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I'd mentioned to my cab driver earlier that I was intending the 5:20 bus from Santana to Funchal. He had mentioned that the same bus leaves Ilha at 5 o'clock. And he noted, "it is the same distance." I pulled out my map, and no, it looked like a much longer distance, but it looked like I could cover the distance in the nearly 2 hours remaining before bus time. |
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I was jubilant to leave the crowds behind and only encountered one couple on the entire length of the route to Ilha! |
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Some of the path traversed deep trenches incised into the landscape. According to my map, the route I descended was a portion of a longer route from Ilha to Pico Ruivo. I wasn't sure if the trenches resulted from hundreds of years of Pico Ruivo hikers - or maybe hydraulic trenches or ???? |
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Eventually, I arrived at the edge of the woods overlooking the village of Ilha |
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I waited outside a small market. At about 5:20, the 5:00 bus to Funchal arrived. |
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April 13 - Levada Furado walk from Ribeiro Frio. Loop back to R. Frio. Walk to Balcoes.Andrea had recommended these walks from their January visit. One was a loop, starting with a levada walk. The seecond was a short out-and-back to the 'Balcoes' viewpoint. Rother Walks 19 and 17, respectively.
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Hike Map |
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It seemed like there were more mountain bikes eager for transport than there was capacity to carry them. |
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The hikes from Ribeiro Frio start at this trout farm restaurant. |
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There were some walkers on the route, but not nearly as many as on my Caldeirãos walk of the day before. And now there were abundant opportunities to pass... Some people were walking the loop route back to Ribeiro Frio. Others walked a longer levada path to the town of Portela. |
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I followed the direction in the book to leave the levada here and to ascend, sometimes rigorously, along a steep partially abandoned watercourse. |
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I encountered and passed this couple from Holland. |
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The scrubby woods transitioned to pasture interspersed with forest. |
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I had seen these signs a few times along my route, and assumed I should follow them. But I realized that the running route ascended southward, when I thought I should be starting to descend northward. |
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The guidebook said I should turn to approach the farm buildings. |
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I had heard the sound of motors, without guessing the source. Now, as I approached, I could see that there were a bunch of guys with radio-controlled model airplanes. |
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The fellow with the heavy glove was trying to spin the propeller to get the engine started. Clearly, the glove was intended to protect his fingers if he didn't retract them fast enough... |
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Once the engine was started, the plane could not move because of the vertical logs blocking its forward motion. The guy with the controls tried each in turn, to flex the aelerons, rudder, flaps, and buzz the engine. |
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Then the two men picked up the plane and set it on the 'runway' while the motor idled. |
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The guy with the controls revved the engine and the craft lurched forward and giddily into the air. I and the Holland couple, who were watching with fascination, stood ready to run if the projectile careened in our direction. |
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Most of the rest of the walk back to the trout farm traversed this cobblestone path. |
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There was a brief stretch of walking on the road, then more cobbled path down to the trout farm. |
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Many people do the short walk to 'Balcoes' before the longer loop hike (or longer levada traverse to Portela). Thinking that the midday clouds might dissipate late in the day, I saved the hike to the Balcoes viewpoint for later in the day, AFTER my loop hike. |
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Not a great day for views from Balcoes. |
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Arriving back at Ribeiro Frio, I asked how long it would take to cook up a 'grilled trout with herbs'. The bartender said '5 minutes'. So, for 13.50 euros, I ordered and received a delightful fresh grilled trout. I was pleased that the 'herbs' included an ample supply of garlic! I didn't do much damage to the boiled potatoes or the salad, but enjoyed consuming most of the fish! |
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April 14 - Levada walk from Sitio do Quatro Estradas to Portela.
I had discovered the previous Sunday that there are very few buses on Sunday in Madeira and it's tough to use them for logistics for a good hike. It turned out that today was Friday, April 14. Good Friday. Unfortunately for my purposes, this meant that the buses were all running on a Sunday/Holiday schedule. Talking to the tourist office, and looking at the schedules, it appeared that I could take a 10:30 AM bus to this levada walk. And from its terminus, I could catch a cab to Machico, a major city on the coast, from which there would be buses to Funchal. As I rode the 10:30 bus to my walk, I looked at the bus schedules and it appeared that there was a 4:15 PM bus from Santo da Serra to Funchal. I confirmed that schedule with my bus driver. Santo da Serra was much closer to Portela and would be a much cheaper cab ride. In fact, as I saw from the sign when I got off the bus, it was only 7 km from Portela to my starting point by road - and the map showed that the distance to Santo da Serra was even shorter. So I could walk it, if a cab did not work out. Rother Walk 15.
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Runkeeper Info |
Hike Map |
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After walking up the road for about 10 minutes, I left the road for the levada route to Portela. |
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The walk was flat and pleasant, passing stately old oak trees. Much of the levada watercourse was abandoned, but the route remained as a fine walk through the woods. |
12:07:27
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Yes, stately old oak trees. So why were these large pine cones hanging from one? Closer inspection revealed that the pine cones hung from a branch that had fallen or blown to that position. I was baffled, because I did not see any nearby coniferous source candidates. |
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Eventually, I did find more pine cones. |
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The Lamaceiros Forestry House offered a WC to those in need. |
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This is where the levada route from Ribeiro Frio to Portela merged with my route to Portela. |
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From the Forestry House, the route descended on road, then turned onto a sometimes steep, sometimes active, levada watercourse down to Portela. |
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I reached the road, not far from Portela. |
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Looking toward Portela from the trailhead. |
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I took a few pictures from the Portela plaza. Then, when I looked, the taxi had gone - before I had a chance to talk to the cabbie. |
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Miscellaneous photos in and around Funchal.
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I appreciated the drama of the taxis in the queue. When it was time to move up in line, rather than waste the gas to start the engine and drive 15 feet, most of the cabbies would push their cab by hand. |
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There were at least 3 of these coffee machines arrayed around the breakfast scene. |
08:36:10
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08:41:26
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My typical breakfast at the buffet. |
09:05:37
2017:04:15
My huge hotel had a huge dining room for breakfast. |
09:05:56
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09:07:12
2017:04:15
I usually think of Christmas Trees, not Easter Trees... |
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12:10:18
2017:04:15
Looking at the list of departing flights, it does appear that Madeira hosts a diverse international clientele. |
13:07:03
2017:04:15
They waited for a few minutes before letting us off the bus to board our plane. I presumed they were waiting to finish the fueling process. But then they let us board, tho it was incomplete. |
19:46:17
2017:04:15
I didn't ask about the 40% off 'Poupe'... |
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